Dear Tom and Ray:
This is only tangentially car-related. I know that all good mechanics wear coveralls to keep grease & other fluids off their clothing when working on cars. Assuming that even otherwise-conscientious mechanics might accidentally get some grease, oil, gasoline, etc., on their everyday clothing, what products work well to get these things out of fabrics? Or if you prefer not to mention brand names, what ingredients should one look for when shopping for a shopworthy stain remover? — Kenneth
RAY: You know what they say about an ounce of prevention, Ken? Well, that’s why we highly recommend loud, colorful, floral-print Hawaiian shirts. You can spill General Gao’s chicken on one of those, and it still looks like you just plucked it off the rack at Macy’s.
TOM: I’m actually a fan of dry cleaning, Ken. Not only does it do well on greasy stains, but, as a lazy individual, I also appreciate that they fold and press it all for you!
RAY: In fact, my brother’s been known to leave the house in his underwear, stop at the drive-thru dry cleaner and then dress for work at the next traffic light.
TOM: This isn’t really our area of expertise, Ken. But there are two home methods that seem to work pretty well.
RAY: One is to start by soaking the stain with something like undiluted dishwashing soap.
TOM: That puts some concentrated soap to work on breaking down the grease before you even toss it in the washing machine.
RAY: Alternatively, you can pre-treat your greasy stains with one of the commercial stain-removing sprays on the market, like Resolve or OxyClean.
TOM: In either case, you want to start degreasing as soon as possible. I’ve found that the longer a grease stain remains on clothes, the harder it is to remove. Especially if it’s on a white shirt!
RAY: So, pre-treat the stains as soon as you get home. If you’re using a commercial product, follow the directions on the bottle. And then get the clothes in the washing machine as quickly as you can.
TOM: Traditionally, hot water is best for grease, as long as it’s OK for the specific piece of clothing. Be sure to check the label first: You don’t want to do what I did to my wife’s bras once, and drop them two cup sizes in one laundry cycle. I told her she looked stunning, but she was not pleased.
RAY: And if the stain doesn’t come out the first time, pre-treat it again and give it at least one more try before putting it in the dryer. Or go beg for mercy at your local dry cleaner’s.
TOM: Keep in mind, also, that some automotive stains present problems other then visible blemishes. For instance, if you spill differential oil (aka hypoid gear oil) on your clothes, you can wash it 100 times, but you’ll never get the horrible stink out of it.
RAY: And you’ll contaminate the rest of your family’s laundry. So an outdoor trash can is the place for anything doused in differential oil.
TOM: Battery acid also is a special case. Spill that on your shirt, and it looks fine … until you wash it. Then you have an enormous hole where the acid used to be.
RAY: So be prepared for the occasional defeat, Ken. You won’t get out every stain. You just have to accept that — and hope that the money you spend on dry-cleaning and replacing stained clothing doesn’t exceed the money you save by doing your own car repairs.
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TRANSMISSION LINE FAILURE LIKELY DUE TO AGE
Dear Tom and Ray:
What would make a transmission line blow out? — Tamerlyn
TOM: Sorry, Tamerlyn. I take it you’ve had a catastrophic event in your life recently. RAY: Would congratulations on your new transmission be in order? I hope not.
TOM: Age is the most common culprit in transmission line failure. Those lines are made of steel and rubber; they’re steel with rubber sections at the end where they connect to the radiator. RAY: The lines carry the transmission fluid, which is about 450 degrees Fahrenheit, to the radiator, which is a mere 250 F, so the fluid can be cooled before being sent back to the transmission. TOM: And those lines operate under pretty high pressure. But they’re really tough, too. The rubber has to get pretty old and worn out before it fails. And normally, if you get your car serviced regularly, your mechanic will spot a questionable transmission line before it breaks.
RAY: It’s possible that a problem inside the transmission caused the pressure to increase. That would make a line more likely to blow out, since it’s the weakest link the system. TOM: But you probably would have seen the “check engine” light come on. And you would have noticed the transmission behaving differently when you drove (before the line blew out … we know it behaved differently after that). RAY: So I’m assuming the culprit is old age and lack of a regular mechanic, Tamerlyn. You didn’t give us your address; otherwise, we would have sent flowers. * * *
What’s the best way to warm up your engine in the morning? Find out by ordering Tom and Ray’s pamphlet “Ten Ways You May Be Ruining Your Car Without Even Knowing It!” Send $4.75 (check or money order) to Ruin, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475.
Get more Click and Clack in their new book, “Ask Click and Clack: Answers from Car Talk.” Got a question about cars? Write to Click and Clack in care of this newspaper, or email them by visiting the Car Talk website at www.cartalk.com.
(c) 2014 by Tom and Ray Magliozzi and Doug Berman
Distributed by King Features Syndicate, Inc.